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Gap x Valentino collaboration

26 Nov

I am not a happy bunny this week. After weeks, nay months, of whipping us into a frenzy with rumours, announcements, leaks and teaser videos, the H&M x Lanvin finally launched earlier this week. Previous H&M collaborations have caused havoc but this was out and out chaos. There are stories of people queueing overnight to get a piece! Before 9am, there were over 200 fashionistas queueing at the Regent St store and the online collection was sold out long before then. I had some time to kill before dinner with a friend so I joined in the hysteria by traipsing to four stores. I’m surprised the mannequins were left clothed to be frank, the shelves were pretty much stripped bare! 


With all that hype and build up, I feel a little sorry for the second designer collaboration to launch this week; Gap x Valentino. On the surface, it seems like a rather strange match, when I think of Valentino I normally think of beautiful gowns in Valentino red whereas Gap evokes images of jeans, khakis and crisp white shirts. But you know what, it actually kind of works. The collection is limited to just seven pieces and is utilitarian/military practicality through the eyes of Valentino. That basically means lots of khaki with Valentino ruffles priced between £89.99-£149.99. The range is available Saturday 27th November at Colette, Gap flagship in Milan, the Gap flagship on Oxford Street and Dover Street Market. 

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Haute Couture Spring 2009 part deux

2 Feb

I left some of the big three houses last, so enjoy! Fashion Fix has been gone for a couple of weeks, keep meaning to bring it back! Expect a super-bumper post on Wednesday 🙂

Valentino

Finding a suitable replacement for house namesake Valentino has certainly been a challenge. Alessandra Facchinetti was replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, and this was the debut of the new design team. And my verdict? I’m not entirely convinced. Sure, it was typical beautiful Valentino, but it seemed to lack sincerity. When designing for the likes of Valentino, you are of course tied to the heritage and archives, but you must interpret it in your own way and design something with the past in mind but create something relevant for today. Take Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, perfect example. The Valentino collection seemed like it came straight from the archives. That said, it was far from a terrible collection. With a background in accessory design, she shoes were gorgeous as expected.

Dior

Dior couture was everything couture should be: gracefully flamboyant and beautiful extravagance. There was no sign of frugality or austerity here, just an abundance of ribbons, crystals and rosettes. And it was done oh so magnificently. This quote from Galliano beautifully sums up his attitude towards the collection, “Of course I’m sensitive to the economy. Of course I’m aware of it. I read the newspapers; I watch TV. But dealing with it is not my job. When you’re standing in a hurricane, you have to keep your feet firmly on the ground. If you panic, whew…you fly away”. There’s something so wonderfully ‘let them eat cake’ about it.

As for the actual collection, what’s not to love? It was a riot of flamboyance. Daywear was how I dreamt I would dress when I was a child; grown up and elegantly refined. It was all about the silhouette, structured waists and flamboyantly flared out cornetto swirl skirts. It was old school glamour at its very best, reminiscent of the New Look collection of 1974 but sharper, tighter and more ostentatious…in short bought up to date for 2009. Take note Valentino designers; this is what you must do when looking into the archives! Eveningwear was subtly sexy with the focus on the fantastic silhouette. There are several awards show stealers, as well as some truly stunning dresses, though I’m not sure of the occasion. My favourite dresses had patterns on the layers, urging you to peel them away…

Armani

Georgio’s latest collection was a stark departure from his previous minimalistic aesthetic. And boy did the critics shout about it! The way I see it though, fashion is all about the about-face, something that once seemed grotesque (skinnies or harem pants..) suddenly becomes beautiful and visa versa. It was a collection very strongly influenced by the Far East, particularly China, a China that “does not exist anymore” according to Mr Armani. There were pagoda-flicks everywhere, from the trousers and skirts to shoulders. I wasn’t sure about them on trousers, but the shoulders were fantastic. I’m pretty sure shoulders are about to have a moment.

For daywear we were treated to demure knee length skirts, and very strange trousers! The dark palette had infusions of white and gold which really brightened it up. Like Dior, the look was subtly sexy. But eveningwear is where it came alive for me. Bright jewel tones mixed with striking yellow and the obligatory red and black. Not too sure on the separates, but the dresses were exquisite.

* Source WWD