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Mugler Resort 2012

1 Jul

I think I was just too young to catch Mugler-mania in the 90s, so when the label was resurrected under the tutelage of Nicola Formichetti, I viewed it with a completely fresh eyes, without any pre-conceived ideas of the direction it would take. I took and accepted the suped-up, super sexy aesthetic…which is why I was quite confused when I first saw the Resort 2012 collection. It’s just so different to the autumn/winter 2011 collection, all sleek and form-fitting. It took a bit of Googling but I eventually found some campaign and catwalk images from the original Thierry Mugler collections and I have to say, I have a new appreciation for the resort collection. It takes key elements of the classic Mugler look such as the structured, accentuated shapes and silhouettes and modern, futuristic look with vinyl, lycra and patent fabrics. 

In an exceptionally strong resort season, I thought that Mugler fell a little short of the expectations. It just seems a little flat and generic, had the logo not been put onto the images they could have been from a number of different labels. I’m glad the design team have been looking at Mugler archives for inspiration but I don’t feel like they have really captured the essence of the brand…yet. On the upside, it’s a lot more wearable and approachable than the AW11 collection but still retains the fundamental obvious sexiness. 


McQueen Resort 2012

27 Jun

I don’t normally post about Cruise or Resort collections but I’m more than willing to create an exception for the Alexander McQueen resort 2012. I think many are scrutinising this collection as closely as McQueen main season collections. I’m sure creative director Sarah Burton has become accustomed to this level of interest in her collections and she has really delivered. Every time I look at the collection, I discover something new and the level of detail and embellishment is sublime. 

Her promise of bringing a sense of softness is fast becoming her signature, with delicate fragility fusing with McQueen traits seamlessly. The collection is based on the notion of “romantic utility”, Burton creates a world which has period references with restrained, structured nipped-waist jackets and fitted mid-calf skirts as well as the use of delicate lace. The colour palette has a clear military influence while exotic beading adds an addition dimension to the collection. Elements of the collection have a distinct couture feel – the embellishment and those fairytale tulle gowns – but in a true paradoxical twist, Burton has also used cotton to give the collection a wearable edge.

The collection is undoubtedly a masterpiece and Burton has seamlessly stepped into Lee’s shoes. I just hope she copes with the accompanying pressure and intense interest which is just set to increase with each collection. 

Erdem Resort 2012

5 Jun

I have fallen head over heels for Erdem’s resort collection, which is strange as I don’t normally like resort or cruise collections. They make sense in that we need something fresh to bridge two seasons but they always seem like a re-hash of current trends. This collection literally knocked me off my feet though. I usually like Erdem but there’s a slight disconnect between how sophisticated and stunningly beautiful his collections are and how I dress, so though I really love the collections, they seem a bit unreachable and unattainable. The resort collection though, it alluring enough to make me want to be that person who always looks classic and polished. The type of person who never has a run in their tights or chipped nails. 

Erdem’s fascination with ladylike dressing continues as does his signature floral prints, but they are joined by bold, fresh houndstooth and a more form-fitting cut. The closer cut combined with the restrained knee-length dresses make for some very striking dresses. There is a focus on the back, with keyhole cut outs, floral patterns and floaty cape-like accents making an alluring, arresting detail in the collection. One of the stand out pieces was the trench, something which I believe is making a return after a couple of seasons absence.