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LFW – Inbar Spector SS12

25 Sep

Inbar Spector graduated from Isarael’s Shenkar College in 2004 and in just seven years has become an internationally acclaimed designer, winning awards in both France and Japan. Showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, her spring/summer 2012 collection was inspired by nightmares and the antithesis of heaven and hell. With gothic references, the collection features lace, silk and perforated faux leather with zipper and chain detailing to give the collection a harder edge. Combined with her signature complex constructions, crinolines and corsets, the combination makes for a visual feast of a collection. 

LFW – Georgina Hardinge SS12

25 Sep

Georgina Hardinge’s collections always have pretty literal names, so when I received a bold invitation which proclaimed her new collection is called ‘cubed’ I had an idea of what to expect. As one of the ‘ones to watch’, her show is always a hot ticket at Vauxhall Fashion Scout and Freemason’s Hall was packed to capacity. Inspired by the ‘dark nature of cubo-futurism’ and Raymond Duchamp-Villon sculptures, her mainly grey and white collection featured boxy shapes and various cube and square prints, carefully flattering by nipping in at the waist. The highlight for me were the sheer flowing gowns, absolutely stunning. 

LFW – Joanna Hynes SS12

24 Sep

I had no preconceptions going into the Joanna Hynes show, she wasn’t a designer I had heard of before. I think that was the best way to go into her super fun show. A colourful explosion of sequins, latex, leather and patent, it was definitely one of the brighter shows of London Fashion Week. With a myriad of influences, including sci-fi, disco, Hitchcock, Warhol, the collection could have gone horribly wrong but somehow Joanne combined all of these influences pretty successfully. The mood was quite eerie, with the Psycho soundtrack playing and robotic models, looking like the epitome of ladylike restraint. Oversize, a-line shapes and very slimline, bodycon silhouettes were Joanne’s canvas for her sequins and embroidery with slightly Warhol-esque designs . PVC was one of the key fabrics used, along with colourful leathers. I absolutely loved the colour blocking latex stockings though, a collaboration with Atuko Kudo. It wasn’t my favourite show of the season but there were some lovely pieces and I’m going to keep my eye on her future collections. 

LFW – Jasper Conran SS12

22 Sep

Inspired by bathing suits and languid sportswear, Jasper Conran’s minimalist collection reminded me very much of Calvin Klein’s aesthetic. The precise, boxy shapes were modern, lithe and sporty but far from clinical and boring thanks to the details – wraps, slits, cutaways, straps and ties. The predominantly monochrome colour palette was livened up with bright shades of fuchsia and scarlet as well as the odd block pattern. The collection was beautifully simplistic with clean lines, a refreshing change from the bundles of mish mash patterns, sequins and colours we usually see at LFW.

Thank you to Vitamin Water, official sponsors of London Fashion Week for the ticket to Jasper’s show. 

LFW – Jayne Pierson SS12

21 Sep

For spring/summer 2012, Jayne Pierson collaborated with Derek Lawlor resulting in the Pierson Lawlor knitwear collection. Testing the preconceived ideas of knitwear, Pierson and Lawlor have created a conceptual knitwear collection which focused on movement and texture as well as Pierson’s signature tailoring. The duo collaborated with The Royal Ballet, with several dancers taking to the catwalk to show off the stunning designs. Strutting down the catwalk like proud peacocks, the dancers were captivating. Some stalked down en pointe, showing off Pierson’s structural designs while some shimmied to highlight the movement and textures. It really was a stunning show, from clothing to the cavernous church setting and fantastic dance performance which bought the collection to life. 

* Images courtest of Jayne Pierson

LFW – Holly Fulton SS12

20 Sep

The Holly Fulton collection is exactly what the doctor ordered to perk up flagging fashionistas on a cold and rainy day at London Fashion Week. Inspired by the lady that “dresses for Vegas but hits Margate”, the collection is more glamourous 60s and 70s than Margate-chic (which, incidentally, does not exist!). The colour palette of classic Fulton yellow, cool turquoise, hot pink and checkerboard monochrome was inspired by Slim Aarons’ poolside photos from the 60s and 70s. The Fulton deco also made an appearance in this lively collection alone with zebra print. Reminiscent of the Versace of yesteryear, every single look flawless. 

LFW – Izmaylova SS12

20 Sep

The birth of a new label is always intriguing, especially a luxury label. I always find it interesting to see how fashion (and automobile) companies position them, what their points of distinction are and how they achieve the luxury status from scratch. Izmaylova’s first collection, entitled “The edge of darkness”, somehow captured the essence of luxury and excess with it’s reinforcement of the label’s Russian roots. The Orient Express-esque tickets were intriguing, even more so when my ticket got punched by a lovely ‘ticket inspector’, complete with a uniform and cap. Inside the cavernous space in Freemasons Hall, a bench surrounded by pretty vintage cases sat in the middle of the catwalk.

The setting set the mood for a more is more collection, which is exactly what we got. The collection was literally dripping with luxury, from the soft silk fabrics and luxe leather detailing to the twinkling crystals and voluminous feathers. The craftsmanship harks back to a time well designed and beautifully finished clothing, when fashion was an artform. Indeed, some of the dresses have taken over 100 hours to finish. One dress has 3000 hand sewn black Swarovski crystals on it, while others are made up of laser-cut leather, structured hidden corsets or feather sleeves.