Archive | Dior RSS feed for this section

Christian Dior couture Autumn/winter 2011

5 Jul
I’m finding it really difficult to convey how let down I feel by Dior Couture this season. The last few collections weren’t Galliano’s strongest but without him at the helm it has all come undone. The Dior show was always the highlight of couture week for me, it was the show that raised the bar and gave me goosebumps. My desktop background is an homage to past couture collections. Dior, especially the couture house, without Galliano was always going to be a difficult concept to grasp but the collection they have just shown in Paris can only be described as an eyesore and I am beyond disappointed. The collection has elements of Galliano (although the inspiration is said to be Marc Bohan) and has some sort tiny glimmers of promise but the execution is just terrible. There’s no cohesive vision and though there is some experimentation, it lacks Galliano’s finesse and polish. This is not couture, it’s a bad resort collection at best. The sumptuous luxury has gone and has been replaced by a garish mess. 

* Source Style.com
Advertisements

Haute Couture Spring 2009 part deux

2 Feb

I left some of the big three houses last, so enjoy! Fashion Fix has been gone for a couple of weeks, keep meaning to bring it back! Expect a super-bumper post on Wednesday 🙂

Valentino

Finding a suitable replacement for house namesake Valentino has certainly been a challenge. Alessandra Facchinetti was replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, and this was the debut of the new design team. And my verdict? I’m not entirely convinced. Sure, it was typical beautiful Valentino, but it seemed to lack sincerity. When designing for the likes of Valentino, you are of course tied to the heritage and archives, but you must interpret it in your own way and design something with the past in mind but create something relevant for today. Take Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, perfect example. The Valentino collection seemed like it came straight from the archives. That said, it was far from a terrible collection. With a background in accessory design, she shoes were gorgeous as expected.

Dior

Dior couture was everything couture should be: gracefully flamboyant and beautiful extravagance. There was no sign of frugality or austerity here, just an abundance of ribbons, crystals and rosettes. And it was done oh so magnificently. This quote from Galliano beautifully sums up his attitude towards the collection, “Of course I’m sensitive to the economy. Of course I’m aware of it. I read the newspapers; I watch TV. But dealing with it is not my job. When you’re standing in a hurricane, you have to keep your feet firmly on the ground. If you panic, whew…you fly away”. There’s something so wonderfully ‘let them eat cake’ about it.

As for the actual collection, what’s not to love? It was a riot of flamboyance. Daywear was how I dreamt I would dress when I was a child; grown up and elegantly refined. It was all about the silhouette, structured waists and flamboyantly flared out cornetto swirl skirts. It was old school glamour at its very best, reminiscent of the New Look collection of 1974 but sharper, tighter and more ostentatious…in short bought up to date for 2009. Take note Valentino designers; this is what you must do when looking into the archives! Eveningwear was subtly sexy with the focus on the fantastic silhouette. There are several awards show stealers, as well as some truly stunning dresses, though I’m not sure of the occasion. My favourite dresses had patterns on the layers, urging you to peel them away…

Armani

Georgio’s latest collection was a stark departure from his previous minimalistic aesthetic. And boy did the critics shout about it! The way I see it though, fashion is all about the about-face, something that once seemed grotesque (skinnies or harem pants..) suddenly becomes beautiful and visa versa. It was a collection very strongly influenced by the Far East, particularly China, a China that “does not exist anymore” according to Mr Armani. There were pagoda-flicks everywhere, from the trousers and skirts to shoulders. I wasn’t sure about them on trousers, but the shoulders were fantastic. I’m pretty sure shoulders are about to have a moment.

For daywear we were treated to demure knee length skirts, and very strange trousers! The dark palette had infusions of white and gold which really brightened it up. Like Dior, the look was subtly sexy. But eveningwear is where it came alive for me. Bright jewel tones mixed with striking yellow and the obligatory red and black. Not too sure on the separates, but the dresses were exquisite.

* Source WWD

*Gasp* Vintage Dior on sale…

6 Jun

OMG!! I completely *heart* Dior…I’m thinking up ways to beg, borrow or steal enough to purchase something as I type. Having scoured a variety of vintage dealers and private collectors from Paris and Milan to New York and LA, Yoox have put together a stunning collection of items from the Dior archive for sale. Ranging from the 40s to the 80s and beyond, you don’t wanna miss this!

* Source Yoox, Vogue UK